I spent four days in Uozu, just around the corner from Toyama city, but I could have easily spent a lot longer here. Ignoring the town’s three boasting points (glow-in-the-dark “hotaru-ika” squid, a petrified wood forest, and a mirage that most of the locals have never seen), I found Uozu to be a fantastic place where the people are friendly, and everyone is keen to strike up a conversation.
Food
On my first night I thought I would treat myself so I made my way to Tokkuri, an izakaya next to the Sankus convenince store on the north west corner of the Sun Plaza shopping complex. I was drawn in by the 地魚 on the red lantern outside – local seafood specialty. I wasn’t disappointed either, as far as the food in concerned, albeit a little expensive.
That is, when I could actually order some food. The theme for the night was “talk to the foreigner,” and every single customer was either asking me questions or giving me local advice. Or beers. Or food. Or fireworks and a lighter.
Yeah, I scored heaps of stuff that night from the other customers and the mama of the izakaya, including a 1/2-price ticket to the famous “kintaro” sulphur onsen/ryokan in the mountains towards the west of Uozu (still a little expensive at 800 yen, but completely worth it). On the second night I cooked my own food, and on the third night I went to a place on the street just behind Tokkuri called “hide” with 秀 on a red lantern. This place was suggested by Aki-boo at the local reggae bar “Afloland” (sic) because I mentioned that Tokkuri was a little expensive.
Hide certainly was cheap! Two people came to 2100 yen excluding drinks, which are 400 for a nama beer. Great atmosphere, more chatting with the locals at the counter, and a few pretty girls there. Not a big place, mind you. The master (who I assume is called “Hide”) is a bit shy but once you get him talking he’s hard to stop. He’s been to Australia too.
The supermarket in Sun Plaza is cheap for fish and vegetables, and not expensive for bento.
Parking
I spend most of the time parked at the “umi no eki” (海の駅) down on the water. There’s a big free carpark there, it’s slightly away from the road, there are toilets and drinkable water. You can get a coffee for 200 yen there too, which was a nice way to start the day. It was about 15-20 minutes walk from the main downtown area.
I also parked the night at another place in town which was recommended to me. It’s 300 yen for 24 hours, so if you arrive at 10pm you can stay there until 10pm next night. No toilet facilities (I used the bar I was drinking at, then the Sun Plaza in the morning), but it was great because I went for a drink, stumbled back to my van, and then woke up next morning and grabbed some greasy fried food from the supermarket.
Drinking
Besides the izakayas, the only bar I drank at was the reggae bar, Afloland. Beers are a little expensive, but there is no “otooshi” or seat-charge. I asked about this, and they said that they don’t charge it to foreigners! God, the discrimination in this country is awful, I tell you!
The English teacher I spoke to also recommended an English pub down near the station, but I can’t remember the name. Apparently there are 11 English teachers in Uozu.
Keeping Clean
One of the best-value sento I have ever seen was in Uozu – Shimoda Onsen (下田温泉). 370 yen and you get all the regular stuff, plus a sauna, rotenburo, and a good jet bath. Apparently the womens’ has a bath with an electric shock in it, too.
And of course, the locals were as friendly as ever. There’s nothing quite like chatting to the old locals, naked, their balls hanging around their knees.
The other place I went to is Kintaro Onsen, a sulphur onsen. 1600 yen is a bit rich, but the idea is you spend the entire day there relaxing. If I didn’t have a 1/2-price voucher I probably wouldn’t have gone.
Finally, there are a stack of onsens out Unazaki way.
